Ascending Mount Shyok

One of the reasons I went to India was to stand on top of a mountain and see the view you think of when you hear the word 'Himalayas' - snow capped, triangular peaks, as far as the eye can see, some of them disappearing into the clouds, all of them majestic and breathtaking. Well now I've done it, and I want to do it again, and again, and again, because it was everything I expected it to be and more.

Team Shyok at the summit - Photo by Cameron Montgomery

The expedition was divided up into phases one to four, with each fire doing something different for each one, and phase three being for 'special tours', where everyone could choose between peak ascents, ice field tours, climbing camps, etc. For tour three, most of the TLs decided that they'd like to do something together; we settled on an ascent of a 5,797m peak down the valley from base camp, that we named Mount Shyok.

Our ascent was to be over three days, with a day to reach our high bivvy spot, a day to summit the peak and return to the same bivvy spot, and a day to return to base camp, feeling elated having summited the awesome mountain. The team was to consist of me, Becky, Steph, Rob, Karl, Calum, Monty, Mark, Imi, Cameron and Matt, with Jenny in charge.

We left base camp on the morning of the 10th of August, walking down the Pensi La past a stupa we'd become quite familiar with after trekking past so much, before turning off to the left and starting our ascent. It really was uphill, and felt almost vertical at times, zigzagging past groups of yaks and avoiding slippery parts of scree, struggling to breathe most of the time. The terrain morphed from rolling grassy slopes to broken scree, then into giant unstable slabs and boulders, changing every time we'd got used to walking, climbing and clambering over it. By 6pm we'd made it to our bivvy spot - a flattish area about 4,900m high, sheltered by a large crag, which when climbed over gave way to the most incredible view over base camp and up along the Drang Drung glacier. As it grew dark we cooked our dinner on our temperamental stoves and bedded down in preparation for our ascent the next morning.

Hugging rocks just above our bivvy spot
Photo by Calum Matthews

Throughout the night I woke to a new view of the stars and moon overhead as they moved across the sky, always feeling warm and cosy snuggled up to the others in my crazily warm sleeping bag. I couldn't stop thinking about what awaited us in the morning, and was both stupidly excited and nervous about what it would be like. I hadn't been above 4,700m before that, and knew that I'd feel the altitude as we climbed higher, but I was ready to push myself hard to get there.

We awoke at 5:30am to find our sleeping bags frozen to our bivvy bags and the sun rising over the mountains ahead of us to the east. After a quick flapjack breakfast we packed our bags as light as possible, leaving our bivvy bags weighted with rocks to dry in the sun, and set off towards the ridge we were to follow to the summit.

On the ascent, hating the scree
Photo by Calum Matthews

I could feel the air getting thinner, making it harder to breathe and causing my muscles to burn like fire as we pushed ourselves on. Even taking two breaths per step became difficult at points, and I found myself staring at the ground ahead and forgetting to take in the beauty of our surroundings. We could see the summit we were aiming for most of the time, and it seemed to taunt us by looking so close but making us slog for nine hours before we could stand atop its snow. 

The morning stretched on and the afternoon began before we attached our crampons, grasped our ice axes and began to follow the edge of the snowline to the summit, avoiding precipitous drops and menacing hidden cornice. We stuck together as a team and slowly plodded up the snow towards the summit, over crests and hummocks before the final lump.

Team Shyok crazily happy at the summit
Photo by Calum Matthews

As we moved up the final uphill stretch and onto the flat summit, it felt incredible. We were jumping for joy, congratulating each other on our massive achievement and taking photo after photo and holding pose after pose. The whole team was elated - we'd managed to reach the summit, and for all we knew we could have been the first people ever to get up there. We hadn't seen a single cairn or path on the way up, and we certainly hadn't seen footprints at the top, so maybe we were!

Our descent flew by, and was much faster than our ascent. The snow fields could be pretty much slid down (apart from the deep patches where we fell in up to our knees and couldn't get out from laughing so much), and our route back avoided scrambling over a lot of scree, instead sticking to the snow. We reached our bivvy spot - having been able to see our brightly coloured bags for most of the day - just as the sun was setting, and enjoyed the dramatically changing colours of the sky dancing behind the mountains as we walked into the camp. We ate dinner in the dark before bedding down again, feeling completely knackered but very pleased with ourselves.

Team Shyok on the descent down the ridgeline
Photo by Calum Matthews

The morning after the ascent we woke to find everything frozen again, and had a relaxed morning enjoying the sunrise and the gorgeous view. We even fitted in a spot of yoga in the four hours we were up there, doing sun salutations and poses, before Calum's glute workout, which in hindsight really wasn't necessary but was fun all the same.

One of the main aims of the BES expedition was to conduct science in a remote environment, collecting data for various scientific projects. One project was looking at the effects of pre-conditioning on altitude acclimatisation. A few of us on the expedition had volunteered for the study, which involved being 'cuffed' (a blood pressure cuff was put around our arm and inflated to a certain pressure for a certain amount of time, to build up toxins in our arm and trick our bodies into acclimatising quicker) before each ascent in altitude, and then tested to see how our bodies had reacted. This resulted in us having to do press-ups as fast as possible for 30 seconds, as well as doing multiple spirometry tests, all at high altitude and whilst knackered. Hopefully some interesting results will come out of this study, which should help with our understanding of altitude medicine.

We descended from our bivvy spot to base camp feeling completely parched, as our water source had been the snow but we hadn't managed to melt very much. Reaching the stream by the Pensi La was a happy moment for all of us, and the 30 minute wait for our puritabs to work felt like hours. We got back to base camp in time for lunch, so we made chapattis on the Shyok stove (which we'd named Tanzin), and then deep fried nuggets of dough, when the mix didn't go so well..

Ascending Mount Shyok was definitely one of the highlights of the expedition for me - what an awesome feeling of camaraderie and achievement. Everest next?

13 Weeks To Go!

I've just got back from a week of training up in Lichfield with the other TLs, the expedition Leaders, and the Young Explorers (YEs). It's been awesome meeting the YEs and seeing the Leaders again, and the excitement seems to be building up in everyone.

The TL team spent the first half of the week on an Expedition First Aid course, run by Lifesigns Group. The course has been developed by Royal Army Medical Corps Trauma Medics and outdoor instructors, so it's highly relevant to the Himalayan expedition and has prepared us well for any incidents that may occur. The skills we've learnt might mean the difference between life and death in the mountains - talk about pressure. Having said this, we'll have six medics with us in Ladakh who will take great care of us and be able to deal with whatever the mountains throw at us!

We learnt about what to do in case of suspected spinal injury, sucking chest wounds and catastrophic bleeding, among other things, and were tested in acted out scenarios. I spent one afternoon as a casualty lying on the floor outside with a fake arm wound and amputated hand, next to a fake snake whilst pretending to be unresponsive. I learnt a lot whilst seeing how the three different teams treated me and dealt with the situation.

We all passed the course, which will last us for three years before we'll need to retrain. Luckily the course also counts towards my Mountain Leader qualification, which I'm working towards at the moment.

Feeling cozy in the party tent!

Friday was spent on a team walk around Cannock Chase, a beautiful area around our campsite. We planned our routes on Thursday evening and set off the next morning, taking a well earned detour to get ice creams on the way back!

The YEs all arrived on Friday evening, so a few of us took on the mammoth task of cooking for 170 people - no mean feat! It was great getting to know them all over the course of the weekend, particularly my 'fire', Dras. A fire is a traditional term for a small group of around 10-12 people, originating from a group sat around a camp fire. All of the fires on the expedition have been named after the main rivers in the Zanskar region of the Himalayas, which is where we'll be going. So there's Dras, Nubra, Zanskar, Chenab, Indus, Markha and Shyok-Suru fires.

The Zanskar Himalaya expedition team!

The YEs all received training on the technical equipment we'll be using in India, the different options for shelter, health and hygeine, and other useful and interesting topics. I helped out with teaching about shelter, prompting conversations about shelter options in different scenarios and giving useful tips on putting up tents. We spent a lot of time sitting under the bright orange emergency survival shelters getting far too warm in the sunshine! During the expedition we'll have an extra communal tent for each fire, similar to a tipi, for us to sit in together and have dinner etc. when the weather's not great.

The TLs ran fitness sessions on Saturday and Sunday morning, running around a nearby hill fort and doing some yoga, as well as some 'wide games' on Saturday evening. We all had great fun playing Wizards, Dwarves and Giants (essentially a giant team game of rock paper scissors combined with tag) and Sardines in the dark, where we almost lost one of the sardines as they were so well hidden!

We also ran through the kit everyone will need to take, in a session that lasted over two hours, whilst wondering how on earth we're going to fit it all into our rucksacks! So much kit-envy, so many opinions, and so much down.

Some of the TL team at the end of the week - spot the odd one out with no down jacket..
From the left: Callum, Monty, Anna (me), Becca, Karl, Rob and Steph

There are now only 13 weeks to go until the expedition! The advance party flies from London to Leh on the 17th of July - it's getting closer..

Meeting the TL Team

Last weekend the 20 Trainee Leaders for the British Exploring India and Amazon 2015 expeditions met for our first training session. Despite going on two different expeditions, the two TL groups will be doing all of our training together.

We met up at a scout camp in Lichfield on Friday evening, arriving in dribs and drabs because of major train delays and traffic - I was the first to arrive, so I made the most of the tea and coffee provided and chatted to James and Sam, the two guys taking our training.

We started off the weekend by talking lots about leadership, what it means, what makes a good leader, what our leadership style is at the moment and how we're going to develop over the course of the TL programme. It was interesting to hear about other people's experiences with leadership and their expectations for the programme. We all shared our favourite quotes -

"Leaders are not born or made - they're grown"

"Assumption is the mother of all f**k ups"

"Be the best you can be"

I'm sure lots more quotes will come out of the time we all spend together! (especially if we carry on playing Cards Against Humanity..)

We split into different 'syndicates', groups that we're going to stay in to complete our training (we're working towards a certificate in Basic Expedition Leadership, Expedition First Aid and Offsite Safety Management, as well as doing the expedition to the Himalayas), which was a great way to get to know people better (and learn names!).

We had a look at different tents and tried putting them up, then cooked our lunch on some different stove options. The dehydrated ration packs weren't actually that bad, but a 1,500kcal lunch definitely wasn't necessary!

We then learnt more about what's required to be an expedition leader - lots of risk assessments and planning, as well as the ability to be adaptable and motivational once you're out on the expedition. It's made me even more excited about developing my leadership style and putting it all into practice out in India and afterwards on other expeditions.

Our next training weekend is pretty soon - off to the Lake District in three weeks' time. A blog post will follow :)